The Military Tattoo

Rapidly losing sunshine.

Allow me to set the scene.

Friday afternoon, after school.  It's a beautiful day, with the sun shining bright.  It's brisk, fall weather, a perfect temperature even for those of us who feel such comfort in the tropical heat.  My friends and I took the metro underground to the stop that is right behind the Bolshoi Theatre.  It's full of people milling about, because of a couple big things happening, one of which is a large science themed exhibition.  We kept seeing these science themed kiosks, with chemistry themed pictures on them.  Of course, the insides of the kiosks were moderately tame: coffee, souvenirs, fur hats, food, food, kebabs.  There was even a band playing some sort of music, though it was a bit far away.

He's the happy one.

We were very close to the center of Moscow.  This isn't just a saying, in fact.  Right outside of the gates to Red Square, there is a brass circle laid into the bricks.  It is the very center of Moscow, and all of the city is built around it.  The area is open, large, sprawling, and easily filled with people on a busy day.

Right before this center of Moscow, though, and the gates to Red Square, there was a line of metal detectors and police guards, and the inside of Red Square was nearly empty.  As one of the biggest tourist attractions in the city, you can imagine how rare this is.  We also heard bagpipes, and saw a few gals dressed up like belles, selling pictures with themselves and fighting off oglers. We decided to go into the Square quite early, so we gave our tickets to the men standing guard, got searched and metal-detected, and walked into an empty Red Square.

There were a few people milling about, eating the kebobs and street food on offer.  Some bleachers had been set up looking over a horse field, where people from Central Asia (perhaps Kazakhstan, but unsure) were riding back and forth in beautiful traditional garb, holding people above their shoulders as they rode.  I'm sure there were more tricks, but we became distracted by savory crepes and military men with hawks.  This non-smiling face you see is, in fact, the face we saw the whole time.  There was another one who smiled even less, which I'm sure you find hard to believe.  They were showing off their animals, and that was all.

View from the seat.

As we went forward, we found a gingerbread gun (which Rorey bought, which wasn't very delicious), the Scottish marching band that marched straight through this walkway with their bagpipes, and the giant stadium where the tattoo was taking place.

And so, we went to find our seats in the still empty stadium.  We were quite early, having been warned that security and the number of people sometimes become overwhelming.  We had this gorgeous view of St. Basil's Cathedral, and of a completely empty space in the middle.  Now, I came into this Tattoo without a full comprehension of its purpose.  I knew that there were Military Bands.  I knew that it was highly recommended for all the people.  I knew that it was fun.  I didn't have many expectations, but, they were shattered in the face of what I saw.

There was an announcer, speaking like the start of a boxing match in guttural Russian.  The first band emerges from the St. Basil's side, slowly marching towards the center.  They get into formation as the church bells toll.  The arena lights up red, and loud marching music fills the air.  I was thrilled from this moment forwards.

But wait, there's more.

Apparently, Military Tattoos also showcase their soldiers, and the gun twirling tricks that they have somehow picked up.  So, this particular band (Slovakia perhaps?) also had a long line of men acting as one with their gun movements.

Now, this was one of the more... traditional... Military Tattoo bands of the evening.  Things got a little ridiculous throughout the evening.

For example.

Scotland was there, with all the bagpipes.  Their set included a handful of pretty lady dancers with the coolest argyle socks and matching sweaters you've ever seen.  They were, of course, driven into the arena in fancy cars.

Hello Scotland.

During one set, a band played the Game of Thrones intro theme followed by an 80s song with a lady singer (who I believe also played clarinet?)

Mongolia had the most amazing outfits, with golden, tall, pointed helmets and a rainbow of colors.  Their set included the trumpet making horse-like sounds, and three traditionally dressed dancers who whirled around as the music picked up speed.

Mongolia, you win the beauty contest.

One band had a point where baton twirlers and the majority of the band surrounded a tuba player, then as he played one long, low, sound, they all fell to the ground as if collapsing from the power of the note.

Singapore had an identity crisis on the stage.  They had bagpipes in their band.  They had an Indonesian/Malaysian dressed drumline that jammed out on the stage.  Their dancers were dressed in a Chinese style, with long flowing costumes that had scarves at the hands.  And, they ended up playing both Bollywood and popular modern songs.

Belarus was among the favorites.  Hip music, fantastic formations, and all in all amazing work.

At some point, there was a featured singer (two even).  They were, in all honesty, my least favorite part of the evening.  But, the crowd went insane for them.  The famous lady was French, and she has a cult like following here.  It messed up my Tattoo groove, but the rest of the stadium was very excited.

All through the night, the Cathedral was lit up to match the colors of the performances.  It was neon, it was blue, it was white as snow....

And, at the end of this remarkable event, the Moscow University Marching corps came out, playing national favorites which the whole stadium sang.  They also wove in "Happy" by Pharrell, somehow.  They were the last set before the grand finale... which was...

Every band coming out onto the stage and performing a couple of songs as one giant mega band.

And then, in true Moscow fashion... fireworks.